Warming up sucks. I get it. Listen to me when I say this. Being injured sucks more. So, for the love of god, don’t be a dingbat and take the time to warm up properly. Today we are going to cover shoulders: First things first. Time brush up on your shoulder anatomy: There are […]
Read MoreTips for Preventing and Treating Injuries Getting injured is one of the worst things that can happen to an athlete, no matter the goals or level of training. We never want you to get injured because it can slow down your physical progress and more importantly, your motivation. With that in mind, here are […]
Read MoreKyle Richardson is a mountain athlete who lives in Boulder, Colorado. His focus is a hybrid blend of endurance-speed climbing and running, known as FKT or fastest known time. Here is a link to the website that tracks FKT. Participants attempt to climb mountains or features of a mountain as quickly as possible, measuring the time […]
Read MoreI sent over some quick questions for pro climber Joe Kinder pertaining to training and climbing advise. Here are some quick answers to some quick questions. Take gander. Question by Matt Lloyd p.s – I stole all the photos from the interwebs… duh. […]
Read MoreWhy prioritize dead hangs over other types of accessory climbing training? The evidence shows climbers who can dead hang longer climb proportionately harder grades. That may seem obvious, but another way to look at it says, you don’t need to train pull-ups as much, there has been no correlation found there. “Hand’s fingers flexor […]
Read MoreSpeed in Sport Climbing: Using Speed to Increase Climbing Ability The best climbers in the world share a certain climbing trait. It’s something you probably don’t often consider when assessing your own progress and performance; and it’s probably simpler than you might expect. So, what is this vital component to performance and how do I […]
Read MoreCROSSFIT FOR CLIMBERS This is my story about being a climber who stepped outside his comfort zone to address something that may have been missing in my training and fitness. By Matt Lloyd A few years ago my now business partner and I started talking about opening a gym. As a lifetime climber I wanted […]
Read MoreCrossfit shoes and their importance while training What’s wrong with my running shoes I have right now? Traditional running shoes that most new lifters have are great for running. They are cushioned and are designed to take the hard, frequent, and repetitive heel impacts on concrete that running creates. Conversely, they are squishy and tend […]
Read MoreEver wanted to know how caffeine impacts training and performance? Well, here are the highlights of where a little research led: Caffeine, also referred to as 1, 3, 7-trimethylxanthine is extremely popular (as I’m sure you know); it’s the world’s most consumed pharmacological drug. Prior to the early 2000’s caffeine was a banned substance by […]
Read MoreSWITCHING TO “ALL-IN” MODE Our friends over at Trainingbeta.com made a great post about trying hard. It seems simple! Just try hard, right? I’m going to dig in specifically to the use of rituals in sport/competition. Next time you’re close to climbing a certain difficult problem or setting a new heavy PR and need a […]
Read MoreFrom climbing to CrossFit, training to failure is an extremely powerful tool to improve performance and strength. As such, understanding its basics, as well as a few nuances (including its pitfalls) can improve the efficacy and efficiency of any athlete’s training program. Disclaimer: there is a lot of contradictory research on this subject, this […]
Read MoreThis week’s post is all about converting to the Zone Diet. The Zone diet has been around for decades and has generally been known as a weight loss diet; this is a shame because being in the Zone is about so much more than weight loss. It’s been proven that your body responds positively to […]
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