Knowledge Center

SPEED IN SPORT CLIMBING: USING SPEED TO INCREASE CLIMBING ABILITY

May 25, 2018 | By Matt Lloyd,

Speed in Sport Climbing: Using Speed to Increase Climbing Ability The best climbers in the world share a certain climbing trait. It’s something you probably don’t often consider when assessing your own progress and performance; and it’s probably simpler than you might expect. So, what is this vital component to performance and how do I […]

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CROSSFIT FOR CLIMBERS

Oct 2, 2017 | By Matt Lloyd,

CROSSFIT FOR CLIMBERS This is my story about being a climber who stepped outside his comfort zone to address something that may have been missing in my training and fitness. By Matt Lloyd A few years ago my now business partner and I started talking about opening a gym. As a lifetime climber I wanted […]

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Join The Cult… Buy The Shoes…

| By Mountain Strong Training,

Crossfit shoes and their importance while training What’s wrong with my running shoes I have right now? Traditional running shoes that most new lifters have are great for running. They are cushioned and are designed to take the hard, frequent, and repetitive heel impacts on concrete that running creates. Conversely, they are squishy and tend […]

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CAFFEINE AND SPORTS PERFORMANCE

| By Will Gordon,

Ever wanted to know how caffeine impacts training and performance? Well, here are the highlights of where a little research led: Caffeine, also referred to as 1, 3, 7-trimethylxanthine is extremely popular (as I’m sure you know); it’s the world’s most consumed pharmacological drug. Prior to the early 2000’s caffeine was a banned substance by […]

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SWITCHING TO “ALL-IN” MODE

| By Will Gordon,

SWITCHING TO “ALL-IN” MODE Our friends over at Trainingbeta.com made a great post about trying hard. It seems simple! Just try hard, right? I’m going to dig in specifically to the use of rituals in sport/competition. Next time you’re close to climbing a certain difficult problem or setting a new heavy PR and need a […]

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Training to Failure

Sep 29, 2017 | By Matt Lloyd,

From climbing to CrossFit, training to failure is an extremely powerful tool to improve performance and strength. As such, understanding its basics, as well as a few nuances (including its pitfalls) can improve the efficacy and efficiency of any athlete’s training program.   Disclaimer: there is a lot of contradictory research on this subject, this […]

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10 TIPS FOR CONVERTING TO THE ZONE DIET

Sep 19, 2017 | By Will Gordon,

This week’s post is all about converting to the Zone Diet. The Zone diet has been around for decades and has generally been known as a weight loss diet; this is a shame because being in the Zone is about so much more than weight loss. It’s been proven that your body responds positively to […]

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6 Training Tips for Mastering Footwork Technique

Aug 31, 2017 | By Mountain Strong Training,

If you can accept that the techniques we use are often arbitrarily limited by our chosen discipline of climbing, then we are free to take a step back and look beyond what’s cool and trendy to see what actually works. After all, performance is never out of style.

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Building Your Feet & Why It’s Important

| By Mountain Strong Training,

Part 2: I’m a coach at Mountain Strong Denver where we train high level climbers and athletes from all over the country. As a coach I’m always looking for visual or auditory cues to help my athletes step up their game and execute a specific technique. Footwork came to me a few years ago when […]

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Footwork Technique for Steep Climbing

| By Matt Lloyd,

Part 1: Given that the most talented climbers of the 1980’s honed their skills on the polished vertical granite walls of Yosemite and the hyper-technical limestone of southern France, it is no surprise that a belief that dynamic climbing was inefficient was widely held. It was a time before gym climbing had really caught on […]

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The Fast and Dirty: 20 min training for climbers and mountain athletes

Jun 19, 2017 | By Matt Lloyd,

It’s not what you do today that counts. It’s what you do all year, day in and day out.   Athletically we are the sum of the work we do. As a coach I often see people come into the gym and destroy themselves in a 2-hour suffer-fest workout, only to not come back in […]

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To Scale or Not to Scale…?

Mar 31, 2017 | By Will Gordon,

The Crossfit journal puts it like this: “CrossFit workouts are scaled to preserve the intended stimuli despite athlete limitationssuch as experience, injury, illness or range of motion.” A properly scaled workout safely maximizes relative intensity (load, speed, range of motion) to continue developing increased work capacity despite limitations. Don’t take it personally. You have limitations. […]

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